CRAGS.

Reel Rock 2011 Recap

2011-10-20T18:35:00.000-07:00

Reel Rock 2011 was awesome! Thank you all so much for coming and an extra big thanks to the volunteers who made it one of the smoothest shows we've done yet and to Pipeworks for donating the gym and some staff members to help out. We couldn't do it without you. Over three hundred local climbers and other rad folks made it to the show this year and the energy was great.

CRAGS's Reel Rock 2011 in numbers:

6 amazing movies.

300 + local climbers plus volunteers and staff.

2 kegs of delicious, local, free beer.

1 food truck serving up tasty, wholesome creations (thanks Mama Kim Cooks!)

1 metric ton of buttered popcorn eaten.

1 truckload of shwag raffled off.

We look forward to seeing you all again next year, just don't slack-line like sketchy Andy.

Sacramento climber Alex Honnold on 60 Minutes

2011-10-03T09:18:00.000-07:00

Update on Climbing Prohibition in ASRA

2011-09-08T14:56:00.000-07:00

Since its formation in 2008, CRAGS has worked continuously to lift the climbing prohibition in the Auburn State Recreation Area (ASRA). The ASRA is owned by the Federal Bureau of Reclamation (BOR) and managed by the State Department of Parks and Recreation (DPR). CRAGS has met with officials from both agencies over the years to discuss the climbing ban, written numerous letters and other written correspondence, requested and reviewed substantial documentation related to the ban; and lobbied state legislative representatives for support.

One of the challenges in realizing an end of the climbing ban is that the combination of state and federal jurisdiction has often made it difficult to understand who is calling the shots. For example, the climbing ban which began in 2003, was technically issued by the Superintendant of the ASRA, which falls under the jurisdiction of the State DPR. Indeed, as managers of the ASRA, it has been state DPR employees (park rangers) which have enforced the climbing ban. However, it was the Federal BOR that unofficially requested ASRA to issue the climbing ban in the first place, and has continued to instruct DPR to maintain enforcement of the ban.

Recently, CRAGS met with officials from the Federal BOR at the Quarry in the ASRA to discuss lifting the ban. During that meeting, BOR officials would not commit to lifting the ban immediately, but the meeting was positive in dispelling BOR's stated concern of potential danger to climbers from the active mining opperations occuring above the climbing routes in the Quarry. BOR officials did commit to continue discussing the issue internally and respond more formally to CRAGS' request in the coming weeks. CRAGS will continue to push for the cessation of the climbing ban. Stay tuned . . . .

Wow.

2011-09-07T23:49:00.000-07:00

Arnaud Petit climbs "Black Bean" 8b on trad gear in Ceüse

REEL ROCK Film Tour 10/15/2011

2011-09-04T11:47:00.000-07:00

NEW! Reel Rock 2011 Trailer

2011-08-29T20:39:00.000-07:00

Lover's Leap Adopt-A-Crag in Review

2011-08-25T10:47:00.000-07:00

The June Adopt-A-Crag was a huge success. Dozens of CRAGS' friends and members converged on the camping area at Lover's Leap on the morning of the 25 and got assignments from the friendly Forrest Service Rangers. After collecting shovels, snacks and work gloves, one group headed up Pony Express to the Hogsback approach while another focused on the approach to the lower buttress. Both focused on reinforcing the existing trails using sustainable methods that would provide for heavy traffic and water-runoff.

A third group stayed in the camping area and emptied fire pits; hauling ash and garbage to the trash area and raking all flammable materials away from the pits. The more artistic volunteers received gallons of brown paint and brushes from the Forrest Service and went to work painting the picnic tables and benches, with the exception of those recently destroyed by neighborhood bears.

To thank the folks at the lodge for hosting the volunteers during dinner, another contingent dragged rakes and shovels down the hill and pulled invasive weeds and plants from the grassy area in front of the lodge, further beautifying and fire-proofing the area. Everyone stayed hydrated and happy and the volunteer time flew by.

As volunteers finished their various projects, several top-ropes were set up and folks shed their work gloved and boots in favor of climbing shoes and chalk bags. Everyone who wanted to got a chance to climb the amazing rock they'd been working to protect and some tried their hands at climbing for the very first time.

When everyone had worked up a sufficient appetite they converged on the lodge for a feast of spaghetti, garlic bread and salad and those of age chose from the bar's excellent selection of brews. When all bellies were full and high-fives were given out, volunteers trudged back up the hill and set up camp. Campfires were started, coolers were emptied and campers eventually fell asleep under the newly spiffy, safe and sustainable Lover's Leap. The next day many people stayed and climbed until they couldn't lift their arms. Thank you very much to all of the volunteers, organizers and staff of the lodge. See you next time!

Lover's Leap Adopt-A-Crag on Fox 40

2011-06-24T09:18:00.000-07:00

Lover's Leap Adopt-A-Crag 2011 (This Saturday and Sunday!)

2011-06-20T18:45:00.001-07:00

It's that time again folks! Lover's Leap needs to be cleaned just as much...if not more, than it is climbed! Come out and support a local effort to give back to a beautiful place we all love to play at! On June 25-26th, we will clean-up to prepare the crag for the season...and climb on it too!!! We will clean up for a few hours on Saturday...until the need to climb takes over (probably around 2 or 3?) and camp overnight. Dinner and drinks will be at the Strawberry Lodge on Saturday evening. Sunday will be dedicated to just climbing and no clean-up. If you are not able to carpool or stay both days, you can drive up yourself and meet at the campground on Saturday morning. We hope to see you there!

Origins - The Hulk

2011-06-13T23:34:00.000-07:00

Climbing legend Peter Croft mentors boulderer Lisa Rands on the finer points of alpine free climbing during an ascent of Venturi Effect, Croft's spectacular route on The Incredible Hulk, in California's Sierra Nevada. This is the second installment in the Origins series, presented by Evolv shoes with The North Face and Mountain Gear. Featured on the 2010 REEL ROCK Film Tour DVD and HD Download. www.bigupproductions.com. www.senderfilms.com.
Music by Robots With Hearts, Todayokay, The Brute Chorus, New Town Kings, Sub Rosa, Stax Dempsey,

Want to help with a Reel Rock Tour short film?

2011-06-07T10:14:00.000-07:00

A local climber/film-maker is in need of your skills.

Project: A short film (15 minutes) to document the progress of a teenager with a disability as he trains and learns to climb and eventually goes on a rock climbing trip outside.

Needed: someone with filming experience who wants to DONATE time to help with filming, rope rigging to film outside and other random climbing/filming things. The main filming help will be for a three day weekend either at the very end of June or July, you will need to take a Friday off.

My contact information is Rennie Lee: rennieonthego@gmail.com, and my phone # is 916-585-4286.

Climbing in California State Parks in jeopardy!

2011-05-19T22:32:00.000-07:00

Your help is needed to stop the indefinite closure of 70 California State Parks. As budget battles continue in Sacramento, parks around the state face an uncertain future. In response to recent cuts, the California Department of Parks and Recreation has released a list of state parks that will be closed. Included in the closures are the granite spires of Castle Crags State Park and the iconic sandstone boulders of Castle Rock State Park. The park closures will cut off access to these popular climbing areas, eliminate a funding source for the state, and severely impact local economies. Click here to go to the Access Fund's Action Center where you can write your state representative—and copy Ruth Coleman, Director of California State Parks—today and tell them to restore funding for California State Parks!

Unlock Jailhouse - Planet Granite Matches All Donations!

2011-02-05T09:10:00.000-08:00

In November, the Access Fund announced that it had secured permanent access to Jailhouse Rock http://www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=5000939&ct=8884107 , near Sonora California, through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. However the current parking lot and approach trail still cross private land, which is up for sale. The Access Fund needs your help to raise $40k in the next 12 months to build a new parking area and trailhead and build a stewardship fund to protect Jailhouse for years to come.

Now through February 15th, Planet Granite Climbing Yoga & Fitness http://www.planetgranite.com/ is matching every contribution made to the Unlock Jailhouse Fund, dollar for dollar, up to $10,000! Jailhouse Rock is a local crag for many Planet Granite members, and the San Francisco Bay Area gym wants to give back. Take advantage of their generosity and double your donation today http://www.accessfund.org/jailhouse !

You can help protect access to one of the best sport climbing destinations in the country! Please give to the Unlock Jailhouse fund and double your donation today!

http://www.accessfund.org/jailhouse>

Thanks for your support,

Your Friends at the Access Fund & Planet Granite

CRAGS general membership meeting on Wednesday January 26, 2011 at 7:00 at Pipeworks.

2011-01-14T07:52:00.000-08:00

There will be a CRAGS general membership meeting on Wednesday January 26, 2011 at 7:00 at Pipeworks. CRAGS members will have an opportunity to elect/reelect members of the Board of Directors. Next week, Brian will send out another email notifying members of who has been nominated. Hope to see you there!

CRAGS Helps AF Unlock Jailhouse!

2010-12-29T14:10:00.001-08:00

CRAGS recently worked with the AF to help ensure access to one of NorCals premiere sport climbing areas for now and in the future.

See: http://www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=5000939&ct=8884107

Get ready for Reel Rock!

2010-10-20T13:41:00.000-07:00

Access Fund Conference - West Virginia New River Gorge

2010-10-13T16:58:00.000-07:00

To kick off October, Brian and I (Renee) flew out to West Virginia for the year’s second Access Fund conference. Excited to check out the New River Gorge, we were not disappointed.

I arrived late Thursday night and drove down from Charleston to Fayetteville Friday morning. There I set out to climb with Amy, Joe, and Patrick from the Access Fund, as well as Jonah from Seattle and Tom from San Diego. The new guidebook for the Gorge is incredible, and we easily followed the well-marked trail to some ladders down to an area called Endless Wall for good reason. Tons of great climbs, trad and sport, all levels. I also enjoyed the way Amy would exclaim, “We’re winning!” each time we checked the trail against the map and were on track.

Friday night we all gathered at a nearby campsite and had amazing pizza from a local restaurant courtesy of the NRAC (New River) group. We introduced ourselves and talked about our local climbing areas. It was obvious how proud of the area the NRAC climbers were, and how excited they were to share their rock with us.

Saturday morning we began the conference in the Visitor’s Center across the street from the campsite. They were generous to share their theater room with us, and we stayed much warmer than at the last conference! Saturday began with the ever-enthusiastic Thomson Ling talking about how to get people involved. I then talked about 501(c)(3) tax status and processes, followed by Patrick and Joe discussing more details of property rights and conservation strategies. Patrick had great info about how to get information about land and property boundaries, and both he and Joe showed what incredible sources of knowledge they are for any questions in this area.

After lunch, Anthony talked about the acquisition process, and Jonah showed an example of public/private partnerships by focusing on his work at Index near Seattle. Following this, we all split off in the mid-afternoon to experience a bit more local climbing. I followed local climber Jay to a new area that isn’t even in the guidebooks yet. My little rental Prius barely survived the rugged gravel road (and my passengers had to get out because it was bottoming out too much!). The climbing area was right off this, though, and I enjoyed how so much great climbing had easy access. (In California, I feel I’m often doing an hour’s rugged hike before I get to climb!)

Saturday night we checked out Gene’s outdoor store and then walked down the block to eat. The restaurant donated 10% of our bill and the waiters donated 25% (!) of their tips to the Access Fund that night. How generous!

Sunday we met up again and discussed fundraising, easements, and had a panel discussion on risk management and private land ownership issues. After lunch, Pete presented his doctoral study on the impacts of climbing on overhanging cliffs (though unfortunately we have to wait for his results). The photos and detail were fascinating. At this point, I had to head out to catch my flight home, but I believe Amy talked about land management and stewardship, and Patrick talked about the conservation toolbox he’s been working on.

In sum, it was another excellent weekend filled with some of the most motivated climbers around from all sides of the country. I learn so much and make great new friends and contacts that will be working through the same issues as CRAGS and will offer support whenever we need it. What a great network of people!

Lovers Leap Adopt-a-Crag Photos

2010-09-20T15:02:00.000-07:00

June 5 Adopt-a-Crag at Lovers Leap - A Great Success!

2010-06-09T16:59:00.000-07:00

On a sunny Saturday morning, several carloads of climbers drove up from Sacramento to Lovers Leap. A great crowd of more enthusiastic climbers met us there, as many had chosen to spend the night at the campground to get in some more climbing.

The park rangers arrived exactly on time and were full of ideas and supplies! We split into groups and began preparing the campsites and some approach areas for the upcoming season.

While we moved from site to site, someone commented how it felt like we were providing room service to the campers. It did feel like that! The campers left their belongings at the sites while they went out to climb or hike, and we came through during the day in a flurry of housekeeping activities, leaving the sites sparkling clean for their returns.

All the picnic tables were scraped of old paint and repainted (mostly by our youngest helpers, who ended up wearing a lot of paint themselves). Apologies to the parents (who were wonderful at supervising and exceptionally patient with the extra paint!). :-) We also had teams of volunteers raking and sweeping all the trails through the campground as well as within the sites. It was incredible how much fresher the sites looked after their careful work!

Fire pits were emptied, and loads of new firewood (from fallen trees) was chopped and stacked. I wish I could have seen the looks on campers’ faces who returned to find a stack of new nice wood waiting in their sites. Our wood choppers did a lot of hard labor and made huge progress in just a few hours.

Another group headed up near the main wall to rebuild a retaining wall. One of those volunteers remarked that he’d been wanting to fix it for ages. With a good team of motivated people, the job was quickly accomplished.

Around 1 PM, the sites looked ready, wood was chopped, steps were built, and everyone was hungry! Our injured leader Brian, eager to participate where he could, manned the grill despite crutches, and everyone enjoyed lunch together while sharing what they had been off working on. Several groups hiked off after this to squeeze in a few climbs before sunset.

The Leap is one of the most spectacular climbing areas in northern California, and CRAGS was excited to partner with local park services in this adopt-a-crag event in order to show our support and bring people together in the climbing community. Special thanks to all the new faces that came! We are excited to meet you and look forward to seeing you at more events.

Photos coming soon!

~Renee

June 5, 2010 - Lovers Leap Adopt-a-Crag Event

2010-05-14T17:03:00.000-07:00

On June 5, we are going to be assisting the park services with preparing Lovers Leap for the new climbing season! Please join us by meeting at 8am at Pipeworks Climbing Gym (116 N. 16th St., Sacramento) to carpool. We look forward to seeing you!

Access Fund Summit - Trip Report (by Renee)

2010-04-09T22:52:00.000-07:00

Above all, remember that you’re a climber. –Paul Morley from SECC

At the end of March, Brian and I flew down to Vegas for the Access Fund Summit. Brian had been the previous year, but this was my first time. And my expectations were blown away.

Brian had looked up the building we were meeting in in Blue Diamond, which is just outside the city, and he joked that it looked like an igloo. Ironically, it turned out to be the coldest building I’ve ever spent time in. This includes my office, where I am forced to wear a sweater during 100+ degree Sacramento summers. Despite the beautiful weather outside, we all bundled up in down jackets, hats, gloves and scarves while inside.

It was worth every freezing minute.

I knew I liked these people as soon as I saw they’d included nutella in the breakfast spread. We began with introductions and then a panel discussion. Next, Brian led a discussion on partnering with federal agencies, and then Gary talked about partnering with state and local agencies. Both focused on a spirit of cooperation and an attitude that presumes we’re all (climbers and agencies) working for the best for the land and each other.

Some key ideas I noted:

-Hold climbing season movie nights or slideshows to build community.

-Friends of J-Tree sponsors “Climbers’ Coffee” where they fund the materials for park services to host the event…this builds their relationships.

-An MOU (memorandum of understanding) lets you be the voice for your group.

-There are a variety of ideas for membership. Some groups prefer to do lifetime membership to simplify the process and focus on other events instead of the constant effort to renew members.

-It’s useful to partner with other outdoor groups. Home owners may also be interested in your efforts.

-There will be people who misuse resources…try to outnumber them with good deeds.

-Volunteering to do work for the park services is a win-win. They get credit for your volunteer hours. Volunteering also leaves everyone with a feeling of ownership for the area.

-Holding a retreat for your board helps everyone focus and plan the goals.

-Lisa from LV uses meetup.com to post opportunities.

-Discussed the Freedom of Information Act and how it’s helped in many situations. Similar policies exist under different names at the state level.

-Focus on the job spin to get government attention…if developing your area will affect the job situation positively, point that out!

-Don’t do events that compete with guide services.

-We need to work on linking to each other’s LCO websites.

After a delicious lunch that Amy arranged, and a quick thaw outside in the sun, we returned for the afternoon session. Steve discussed NEPA, the National Environmental Policy Act, and armed us with some great materials to take home. Jason talked about fixed anchors after that. I learned that federally designated wilderness is defined as not allowing mechanized (like mountain bikes) or motorized (like drills) equipment in the grounds. Federal services include Park Service, Forest Service, BLM, and Fish & Wildlife territory.

Finishing in the early afternoon, we took a quick group pictures and made a move out to the rocks! The majority of us rolled into Calico and spread out. I was already impressed by my peers, but this is where I became really impressed. I have never experienced a group of so many people, who had mostly just met, climbing so well together. But it was really that simple. We were all ecstatic to be there, playing on incredible rock in a new place.

Within very little time we had a wall of top ropes set up so the majority of people could rotate and climb their fill, while those who had fit ropes into their luggage led harder climbs on the other three sides of the rock. I haven’t “warmed up” on a hard 11 in a long time…these folks weren’t messing around! Special thanks to the locals that quickly told us where to go and what was what. I loved getting to climb with so many new people who adore the sport.

Sunday morning was kicked off by Paul’s “Strength and Motivation” presentation, appropriate for someone who had gotten up at 5:30am to try to send a problem before the session started. The SECC is one of the more accomplished LCOs, and hearing what the experienced organizations have been able to accomplish was truly inspiring. The idea that we could purchase land to preserve climbing…wow. These groups are making the unbelievable happen.

Kevin and Greg followed this with a discussion on handling raptors and proposed closures. I learned a lot and was really impressed by the amount of work that the San Diego LCO has put into this. Another expert from the east coast, Anthony, spoke about climbing management plans, and then Jason & Doug talked about planning and historic designations. (Note to self: definitely go climb at City of Rocks.) Thompson taught us some psychological tricks for building a stronger org, and Joe explained more about land conservation options.

A few more things I noted:

-“Teamworks” teaches kids about conservation by creating friendly competition.

-Discussed insurance options…something we all need to consider

-Seasonal newsletters are a good way to stay in touch

-Climbing with different people from your normal crew gives you new perspectives on your community and its needs.

-Compromising with a raptor advisory is better than a closure if the birds aren’t at risk

-Don’t forget local university resources

-State Historic Preservation Office could be useful

-Have a personal mission as well as your org’s mission

Overall, an amazing weekend full of great knowledge and energetic, motivated climbers. Thanks to Amy, Brady, and Dean from the Access Fund for putting together such a great event!

~Renee

Minutes from 3/9 - CRAGS

2010-03-20T11:28:00.000-07:00

Attendees: Gordy, Renee, Brian, Ellen, Rob
Apologies: Aaron, Jason

-Brian met with Schroder & Finnigan (sp?) about Auburn and is awaiting a response

-Tax status: still getting push-back. Ellen and Brian to craft a new letter. (Done)

-Leap clean-up
-Have 3 local contacts that are helpful
-Rob is working the recycling angle
-Question raised as to if we could offer volunteers a free pass in trade?
-Jason's CRAGS' facebook page will help with advertising - maybe mid-May to start recruiting
-June 5 tentatively marked for this, but will have to see about weather

-Blog: Aaron added new educational material

-Want to put general membership on the next agenda. Could consider doing a newsletter.

-Next board meeting scheduled for Thursday, April 15, 7pm at Pipeworks.

Thanks,
Renee

Minutes from 1/28 - CRAGS

2010-03-06T11:38:00.000-08:00

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 11:44:14 -0800

Attendees: Renee, Aaron, Rob, Jason, Andrew, Ellen, Brian
Apols: Gordy, Colin

Minutes:
-Access Fund meeting is in Red Rocks (Vegas) March 26-28. Brian to send follow-up (done). All are invited and it's free.
-Discussions will be about public land issues

-Unanimous voting to elect Renee, Aaron, Jason, and Ellen to the BOD

-Andrew and Brian continue working on our tax forms and status. Got a reply to our 501c3 application, to which Brian sent a very thorough explanation in response.

-Discussed spring Adopt-a-Crag plans.
-Agreed on The Leap.
-Late May or early June.
-Options: lodge support, trail creation, recycling, clean-up
-Ellen offered to contact Forest Service and Rob to contact the lodge within the next two weeks to talk with them and see what ideas they have. They'll send an update via email after that.

-Next meeting scheduled for Tuesday, March 9th (7pm PW).
Gordy - does this work for you? We could do Wednesday, too.
-Will need to do officer elections at the next meeting.

Thanks!
Renee

Local Geology and the Question of Exactly How Buffed Are Your Routes?

2010-03-06T11:02:00.000-08:00

Most peoples experience in climbing revolves around a steady progression of climbs at lower grades moving to harder as their skills increase. This general progression through the learning curve of grades often results in many people climbing the same routes over and over again, particularly at the low grades. The result? Buffed Routes!

When I say Buffed, I don't mean these climbs have muscles, it means that throughout the years, in some of the older more established areas decades, the routes are slowly but surely cleaned of all loose rock by the passage and pulling of hundreds if not thousands of ascents. This often leaves new comers, and even some picky old timers, with the perspective that all climbing routes are magically clean from the get go. This is most often not the case, and in the case of newly developed routes, is generally the exception, not the norm.

Now there are some routes, most often due to the variety of local geological rock type, that will never be bullet or buffed, but to some, this is all part of the magic of climbing. The Bay and Sacramento area runs the gauntlet of climbable rock in just about every imaginable rock type. This wide variety in local geology can make for a very different climbing experience depending on where you go. From an educational view think of it like this:

Slabby rock generally is subject to more weathering ranging from rain to wind. This often results in cleaner rock which often may be covered by moss or lichen in areas with wetter or shadier climates. Overhanging rock is usually less exposed and therefore often is more chossy. Look at areas like Rifle, CO or American Fork near Salt Lake to see prime examples. The beauty of this rock though is once "cleaned" the "chossiness" provides great climbing features that allow steep expanses of rock to be actually climbable. Local examples include Table Mountain near Sonora, Big Chief, the Bear near Calistoga.

Granitic/igneous rock or other extremely dense rock is usually cleaner from the get go. Think about places like Yosemite, Cosumnes, or Lovers Leap. Most of these areas require little cleaning of moss/lichen on key holds and then kicking the rock to free the few loose areas. These routes often reach "buffed" within a few ascents.

In contrast softer sedimentary rock, like sandstone or limestone, generally are more chossy to start and will require more cleaning as well as more traffic to clean up to "buffed" status. Good local examples of this are Mt. Diablo, Auburn SRA, or Castle Rock SP.

And then there is volcanic rock which can range from dense columnar basalt to breccia of mid-grade density to soft and porous welded tuff. These areas can go from limited cleaning in slabbier areas, to overhanging well featured semi-construction level efforts to clean. The rock quality can range from bullet like Putah Creek, to slightly less bullet but still solid aka Nut Tree, to Big Chief Table Rock semi-chossy that cleans up nicely, to Mount Saint Helena (MSH) grade welded tuff to the north of the 29 aka The Bear and Bubble, progressing (or digressing depending how you look at it) in quality to the Pinnacles in the South Bay to Table Scraps and Table Rock on the south of 29 on MSH.

The bottom line is take time to educate yourself about any area you plan on visiting and adjust your expectations to rock quality factoring density and years established to maximize your experience. If you go to Table Scraps (soft rock that was established in the last few months with little traffic) thinking it will be roughly equivalent "buffed-wise" to anything in the Grotto 5.10 and under which has seen thousands of ascents over many years and is made of much more dense basalt, you are setting unrealistic expectations. Other considerations for choosing your destination over any given trip is weather. Give the rock a day or two to dry out after any rain for softer areas like Mt Diablo, Table Rock, or Auburn. Softer more porous rock absorbs more water and therefore is weakened by rain more so than granitic or dense rock areas which often just take a stiff breeze to dry in a few hours like The Nut Tree Boulders, or Mickeys/Stinsons Beach areas.

Some people will "poo poo" areas based upon rock quality and relative "buffed-status", while others seek out the challenges this type of rock offers. I prefer a wide variety in my climbing diet ranging from choss to bullet. It keeps the experience fresh and will constantly throw new challenges your way. Regardless of your preference, educating yourself about the geology of local areas can be fun, fascinating, and just may help you have a more enjoyable time when you go climbing!

CRAGS meeting/election on January 28th

2009-12-31T10:11:00.001-08:00

Hello, climbers!

Thank you for your interest in CRAGS (Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento). Established in early 2008, CRAGS is a local climbing organization and affiliate of the Access Fund created in order to protect local climbing areas. The organization has brought the Reel Rock film to Sacramento the past two years, has done local climbing area clean-up, and has been working to reopen climbing in the nearby Auburn quarry.

Our next meeting will be held on Thursday, January 28, 2010, at 7PM at the Sacramento Pipeworks gym. We would love to have your involvement and ideas! We will also be holding our annual election for the board of directors that evening, and if you are interested in running or know someone that is, please send us your name within the next two weeks. The board has 9 members and 2-4 alternates, and half of these positions will be reelected on the 28^th. We meet about every other month and work together via email in between meetings, which are usually held at Pipeworks.

You can find more information at our website here: http://yourcrags.blogspot.com/

We hope to see you on the 28^th!

Your CRAGS secretary,

Renee Ross

BOD Meeting Weds 092309 @ 7PM

2009-09-19T09:31:00.000-07:00

The Board will be meeting at Pipeworks @ 7PM on Wednesday 092309. Known agenda topics so far:

Auburn Status and Next Steps
Reel Rock Update and Planning

Thurs 08/20/09 BOD Meeting

2009-08-23T09:36:00.000-07:00

The board met on Thursday at Pipeworks to finalize the Draft Interim Climbing Management Plan to be presented to the SRA. Attendees were: Brian, Gordy, Aaron, and the following via phone: Collin, Rob, and Andrew.

With some minor tweaks to the wording the resolution to accept the Plan as written was unanimous. Next step will firing it off to the SRA and setting up a meeting to discuss it!

Auburn Quarry Needs Your Support

2009-08-08T15:20:00.001-07:00

Do you like limestone? Would you like to be able to drive to the foothills and have your pick of at least 150 good climbs?

If your answers are "Yes. Yes. Yes!!," then the quarry at Auburn State Recreation Area needs your help.

CRAGS is pushing ahead on efforts to get climbing legalized in the recreation area. Access to this climbing area has been long sought by climbers. And it'd help boost Auburn's economy with all the money we climbers spend while we're out there on gas, food, Starbucks, microbrews, camping, supplies and other stuff.

The next step is to seek the city of Auburn's assistance with requesting that the California Department of Parks and Recreation speed up lifting the ban that's been in place since 2003.

The state parks' Gold Fields District, which manages the federally (publicly) owned land, is currently developing an updated General Plan/Interim Resource Management Plan for the recreation area that appears to include technical rock climbing as an approved activity.

CRAGS will make a 15-minute presentation to Auburn's City Council at about 6:30 p.m. Monday, April 13. The meeting starts at 6 p.m.

The more climbers who can turn out for the meeting and show their support for this climbing area, the better. It's a drive for some folks -- carpool if you can so that city officials know how much interest there is when they make their decision.

The city will be considering this request until its April 13 meeting, when the resolution is expected to be voted on. Please call, email or write the city manager and mayor requesting their support for an expedited end to the climbing ban.

For directions to city council chambers and map.

The Auburn City Hall is very easy to find. From the west, take the 2nd Auburn exit. It will say Hwy 49 to Grass Valley. At the end of the ramp, go right. The large old 3-story yellow-brick building right in front of you as you drive up the street is City Hall. Get in the left lane. At the signal, go straight across with a slight angle left, into the driveway for City Hall. Park behind the building, and walk to the left rear entrance (downhill side of the back of the building). Inside the door, stairways go up and down. Bear left and go up. When you reach the next level, the City Council chambers will be through the doors on the left.

Meet the Board

2009-08-08T15:18:00.000-07:00

Brian Poulsen (Chairman)

Brian started rock climbing in the foothills of the Southern Sierra Nevada Mountains when he was fourteen. Since then, he has climbed extensively in the western states. His favorite climbing destinations are traditional alpine rock routes of the Sierras, and the splitter desert towers of the southwest. In his free time away from climbing and his three kids, Brian is an environmental attorney for the law firm of Somach, Simmons & Dunn.

Logan Jeffrey (Vice Chair)

Logan has been hang-dogging indoors and out for three years. He recently led his first multipitch trad line and realized that gym climbing doesn't really translate. In addition to climbing, Logan is a full time photographer, bike commuter, hummus expert, world traveler, and knows his way around a foosball table. To fund his jet-setting he works at a mom-and-pop sporting goods shop called REI.

Ellen Trescott (Secretary)

Ellen has recreationally climbed while residing in Washington, Oregon, and California. A water and land-use attorney at Downey Brand LLP, she joined the CRAGS board in early 2010. Ellen hopes that her involvement with CRAGS will help improve outdoor recreational opportunities in the Sacramento area, and give her more excuses to get out of the office and into the hills.

Andrew Housley (Treasurer)

I know I joined up with the organization because I consider myself an active person and I wanted an opportunity to help bring climbing, widely known as an "extreme sport", into the spotlight in order to show people that it is a positive, safe activity that the whole family can enjoy. I'm just hopeful what ever enthusiasm I can bring forward will help bring about a positive change in the public eye.

Rob Trelford (Volunteer Coordinator)

I am the coach of The Summit Party USAClimbing team at Pipeworks. My only claim to fame in USAC is that our team has had kids on the US National Team. Also we just got two of our kids their first Pro Sponsorship with Team Madrock. And oh yea, I took third in the old farts division at US National Championships in Boston back in 2005. I climb alot of trad and got my butt spanked on God of Thunder this year. Props to my best partner Vic for sharing the best year of climbing in our lives this summer. And I teach 6th grade in my spare time. See y'all in Bishop this Winter!

Gordon Ainsleigh

Gordy Ainsleigh, 61, is a chiropractic doctor with a home-office in Meadow Vista; a hobby scientist who wrote a landmark medical journal article on the cancer-preventing effects of sun exposure, published in 1993; the founder, staff doctor and 22-times finisher of the Western States 100-Mile Run, and, thereby, the founder of the sport of 100-mile trail running;.an adventure guide for local trail running, trail bicycling, river rafting and rock climbing; he used to lead 5.11c, but now gets pumped on three pitches of 5.7-5.10a.

Jason Bove

Mr. Jason Bove was born Jason Bove, in the gorgeous midwest sector of the United States. He has presently found an even more pristine setting on the west side to reside. Jason Bove may now be your neighbor and friend.

Aaron Rough

Aaron Rough lives, works, and plays in Vacaville, CA. While Aaron has climbed at most major destination around the West, he prefers making the best out of what NorCal rock has to offer. He has developed routes and boulder problems in several local climbing areas from the Vacaville Open Space District, the Auburn SRA, Mt. St. Helena, and other smaller areas dispersed across Southern and Northern California. Aaron looks forward to the day when climbers can once again legally climb in the Auburn SRA Limestone Quarry.

John Robinson

Mike Rommel

Colin Wood (Alternate)

Colin is a 3rd year law student at UC Hastings College of the Law in San Francisco. He grew up in Colfax and is very concerned about local climbing access issues. When he's not climbing, or trying to find an environmental law job somewhere in Northern California (anybody have any tips?) he's likely backcountry skiing in the Lake Tahoe Area.

Renee Ross (Alternate)

Renée moved from the Midwest to California in 2002 in search of elevation and bigger rocks. She enjoys bouldering the most but also sport climbs and will trad climb under peer pressure. Renée treasures the variety in people found in the climbing community and cherishes all time spent outside her fuzzy gray cubicle. She also enjoys real mail, catching fall leaves, and running in new places.

History of CRAGS

2009-08-08T15:17:00.001-07:00

A Brief History of CRAGS

In May and June of 2008, a group of about thirty Sacramento area climbers met to discuss issues in nearby climbing areas in order to ensure such areas were properly cared for and maintained for future generations.

This group identified several areas which have been closed or partially restricted to climbing. areas In addition areas that sustained environmental impacts from overuse and neglect were brought to the group’s attention. Safetey concerns for those and other areas were also discussed.

Ultimately, this group decided to formally organize itself into a local climbing organization and affiliate with the Access Fund, a national climbing advocacy group representing over 1.6 million climbers. Dedicated and driven, these local climbers work to protect climbing access and educate climbers about safety and sustainable climbing practices.

Thus was born Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento (CRAGS).

FAQ

2009-08-08T14:59:00.000-07:00

Frequently Asked Questions

• Where do you meet?
Currently we are meeting at Sacramento Pipeworks for general meetings. Please check the Events page for times and dates.

• How often do you meet?
We do not have a set frequency as of yet. Please check the events page or subscribe to our mailing list to stay informed on our events and meetings.

• How can I help?
We would love to have everyone contribute to the organization. Please contact us at Norcalcrags@yahoo.com or use the contact form to drop a line. If you'd like to see us in person, please check the events page for the next meeting.

• How do I donate?
Please use PayPal to Donate (link redirects to PayPal) to CRAGS.

• How do I raise an issue with an area?
Please contact us via the Message Board on this site or @ Norcalcrags@yahoo.com

• Also you can post on our forums and get the discussion started.

• How do I join?

• What makes you different from all the other groups? (Sierra Club etc.)

• How does membership benefit me?
By joining CRAGS you are making a statement that you want to take an active role in supporting a sport that you love. As our mission states, our goals are to help support a clean and healthy environment which we intend to do through programs such as Adopt-a-Crag where we will go as a team go and clean up local climbing areas. We do this not only to show appreciation for the opportunity to use what in many cases is private land, but also so that we can be proud of the areas where we love to be.